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Field Notes

Thirty seconds of Phuket

One place, one time, one observation. Small details may be changed to protect the people in them.

PATONG — 2:17 AM

A German man is explaining cryptocurrency to a woman who has checked LINE four times during the conversation. Neither appears particularly interested in the other's business model.

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BANG TAO — 11:40 AM

Two men at a beach club compare villa prices. Both are renting. Both say "we".

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RAWAI — 7:05 AM

A retired general manager reviews the seafood market's prices like a quarterly report. The fishmonger has heard this presentation before and waits for the part where he buys prawns.

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CHALONG — 6:30 PM

Muay Thai convert, week two, posts his first transformation photo. The lighting is doing most of the work.

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PHUKET TOWN — 9:12 AM

Immigration office queue. The man from Saturday's yacht story is holding a folder of photocopies and ticket number 214.

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KATA — 4:48 PM

He says he came for three weeks. He says it the way people say they are quitting smoking. Year four.

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BANGLA ROAD — 1:36 AM

A promoter hands out flyers for a club that, judging by his enthusiasm, he has never been inside.

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KAMALA — 8:20 PM

"She's not like the others," he tells the table. The table has heard this sentence about four different women. All from him.

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CHERNGTALAY — 10:15 AM

Digital nomad opens laptop at café. Orders flat white. Photographs flat white. Closes laptop. Productive morning.

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KARON — 3:02 PM

A rented scooter comes back with a new scratch. The owner produces a photo album from 2019 proving it was not there. Negotiations begin.

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PATONG — 4:10 AM

Two-week millionaire, night eleven, asks the 7-Eleven cashier whether they take card for 38 baht.

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BANG TAO — 2:00 PM

He tells his new girlfriend he is "basically retired". She asks from what. He has not decided yet.

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RAWAI — 5:55 PM

Expat bar debate: is Phuket ruined? Everyone agrees it peaked the year they personally arrived.

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PATONG — 12:47 AM

The Grab driver has been waiting downstairs for fourteen minutes. Upstairs, a goodbye keeps not ending.

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PHUKET TOWN — 7:30 PM

Night market. He bargains twenty baht off a phone case. An hour later, at the bar, he tips a thousand.

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KATA — 9:00 AM

The second toothbrush appeared on day four. Nobody discussed it. Nobody needed to.

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CHALONG — 11:22 AM

The visa agent says "no problem" three times. The client, who has lived here a while, starts to worry.

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BANGLA ROAD — 2:58 AM

A bachelor party of eight has become a bachelor party of five. Nobody will count until breakfast.

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KAMALA — 6:40 PM

Sunset, villa pool, drone shot. Off camera, an argument about who paid for the drone.

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RAWAI — 10:10 PM

A helmet has been hanging by his door for three days. It isn't his. He has started dusting it.

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NAI HARN — 6:15 AM

Sunrise swim. A Russian grandmother, a Thai fisherman and a Swedish man with a GoPro, each certain they are the only one who knows about this beach.

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PATONG — 9:45 PM

A man is explaining to the bartender how Thai bars really work. The bartender has worked in Thai bars for eleven years and lets him finish.

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CHERNGTALAY — 1:30 PM

Coworking space. Six laptops open. Four people are on Instagram, one is on a dating app and one is booking another month.

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BANG TAO — 7:50 PM

The bill arrives with sparklers. Three friends look at the man who ordered the bottle. He looks at the sea.

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